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Femmes

Crèmes blanchissantes : un danger pour la peau

A Paris, 20 % des Africaines utilisent des crèmes dépigmentantes. Problème, celles-ci contiennent de l’hydroquinone, un actif interdit à la vente en France en raison de ses risques pour la santé.

S’éclaircir la peau est un business lucratif dans la capitale mais pas sans danger. 20 % des Parisiennes noires ou métisses utilisent des produits toxiques pour blanchir leur peau, selon la mairie de Paris. Un marché qui pose problème : les crèmes, sérums et lotions auxquels ont recours ces candidates à un teint plus clair contiennent une substance toxique pour leur peau, l’hydroquinone. Cet agent dépigmentant est interdit à la vente en France depuis 2001 mais dans les faits il continue à entrer dans la composition de produits blanchissants à une dose non règlementaire et dangereuse pour la santé, allant de 4 % pour des crèmes en pot à 10 % pour certaines huiles, selon la Direction générale de la concurrence, de la consommation et de la répression des fraudes (DGCCRF) , reprise par Le Point. En principe, l’hydroquinone est uniquement autorisée à une teneur de 0.02% dans les cosmétiques pour la préparation pour ongles artificiels, toujours selon le magazine.

UN RISQUE DE VITILIGO OU DE DERMATOSES

Quels sont les effets indésirables liés à l’application de crème contenant de l’hydroquinone ? Il existe un risque de vieillissement prématuré de la peau. Une perte de la fonction barrière de la peau face aux rayons du soleil est possible car ce composant inhibe la production de la mélanine (pigment fabriqué par les cellules de la peau).

Ce risque d’affections cutanées consécutif à l’application de crèmes contenant plus de 2 % d’hydroquinone est également souligné par l’Institut national de recherche et de sécurité pour la prévention des maladies professionnelles et des accidents du travail (INRS). « Plusieurs cas de dépigmentation de la peau (ou vitiligo), réversible ou définitive selon la durée du contact, ont été décrits », pointe l’INRS qui évoque aussi des cas de dermatoses. « Le produit pur ou même dilué à plus de 2 % peut provoquer par contact cutané des dermatoses de type irritatif ou des réactions allergiques, à type d’eczémas », précise-t-il sur son site.

Auteur: Emilie Cailleau – TopSante

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